Field Notes - Toshinaho, Ethereal Glow

Toshinaho at the ochaya entrance, Gion Kyoto 2023

In the midst of chatter, the phone rang. A voice on the other end informs our guest will arrive on time. And surely on the dot, Toshinaho ducked through the door and greeted us with her dazzling smile. Remarkably tall for a Maiko, her presence commanded our attention.

“My name!” Toshinaho proclaimed, as she saw me gesturing towards the charm on her ozashiki kago(geisha handbag). Over drinks and snacks, we went through photos from our previous session. When asked if there are any photos that she likes, she singles out only one photo. It was a photo of her dancing. She generously shared some stories of her life in her okiya and hints about her potential future becoming a Geiko.

Toshinaho at an ochaya bar, Gion Kyoto 2023

The night serene and peaceful, we went for a stroll around the lantern-lit alleys of Gion. With each step, her vibrant blue kimono swayed in the night, occasionally catching the moonlight and casting an ethereal glow. Porcelain skin, graceful posture as if gliding. Toshinaho looked like a mysterious figure from a bygone era.

In a city where ancient whispers still resonate, I wonder if I managed to catch a glimpse of Kyoto’s enigmatic past?

Toshinaho getting on the four-leaf clover taxi, Gion Kyoto 2023

Toshinaho - Ethereal glow, Gion Kyoto 2023

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